Category Archives: Motivation

Father’s Day “Supplies”

No, its not a typo, its just my most quoted line from the 1989 Weird Al comedy UHF.

But in all seriousness, I did have a great Father’s Day Surprise this year. My wonderful wife made some secret plans for a climbing outing, and even my 5 year old and 3 year old didn’t spill the beans.

The real story started about a week prior. And actually further set-up back in January. As you may have read in one of my earlier posts, I had set some climbing related goals for 2013. One such goal was to get outside climbing more days in 2013 than previous years. Twenty days to be exact. Well, guess what didn’t cooperate with my plans…

Winter Weather – Snow into May

Needless to say, the late start to (in my opinion) climbable weather coupled with various additional schedule conflicts that come with a “Real Life”, I had not made it outside to climb a single time yet. So when I was whining away about not having gotten outside yet, in the second week of June, my sweet wife had to bite her tongue and keep the surprise alive.

So Sunday morning, Father’s Day, I am awakened by a shake. “It’s 9 o’clock, time for church.” [wait a minute… if it’s 9, we’re already late] So I open my eyes to an envelope waving in front of my face. I open it and it goes something like this:

Happy Father’s Day!
Get packed! We’re going Rock Climbing.
We leave at 7:30 sharp.

It is then that I look at the alarm clock and read 6:45. [Wow, this is awesome] So we get on the road and I notice some funny business, like secret texting and asking me what towns we drove through to get to the crag. But I play along. After all, this is very thoughtful of her and I am EXTREMELY appreciative. We hike to the base of the bluffs and set the gear down, when all of a sudden, “Oh, I forgot the bug spray in the car. Can you run down and get it?” [For real??? OK] And as I’m jogging back down the trail, around the corner comes my climbing buddy and fellow Father. Supplies!!!

Sharing Beta and a Belay

It was a great day. Good warm-up on a classic 5.9, one mis-read sequence away from a 5.11c onsight, and the 2nd go redpoint. I had fun in the great outdoors, doing something I love with the people I love. Plus, although my wife is a distance runner, she is a natural on the stone.

So the seal has been broken. Outside climbing is the name of the game. And the Game is ON!!

2013 Goals Update
20 Days – 1/20 – 5%
13 5.12’s – 0/13 – 0%

~ Climb 4 Real ~

Advertisements

Optimal Temps

Video of Daniel Woods sending ‘The Grey’ (V14/8B+) in the snow.

Daniel Woods – The Grey 8B+ from OnSight Visual on Vimeo.

I don’t know about you, but I am a cold weather wuss. I know that lower temps help with shoe friction and skin contact, but I do not see myself suffering the cold for a SEND. Who knows, maybe I’ll change my mind. I would rather climb when its hot than cold, if I had to pick from one of the extremes.

How extreme would you go for optimal conditions?

~ Climb 4 Real ~

2013 … Goals

I am a big advocate of setting goals. I also am notorious for setting extremely lofty goals. This year, I’m setting goals that are progressive yet attainable. [Vegas odds of 70% +]

I’ve heard of (from several sources) climbers setting yearly goals revolving around their birthday that year. An example would be: I’ll be 31 years old this year, so I’ll climb 31 routes above 5.11. Or the Birthday Challenge: Climb 31 pitches in the 24 hours of their birthday. (IMPRESSIVE) I’ve also come across yearly goals corresponding with the Calendar Year. Example: Climb 20 5.11’s in 2011. Or send 12 5.12’s in 2012.

CragMama.com

CragMama.com

CragMama has a few years of track record documented on her blog, both with the setting of goals and the evaluation of those goals at the end of the year. I’d encourage you to check it out.

In her blog she uses several corresponding numbered goals. #2 – Try at least one 5.13 in 2013. #4 – Send 5 V5 boulders. In the past she’s done: send 12 5.12’s in 2012.

So here is my rendition of 2013 climbing goals.

20 – Twenty days of outdoor climbing. This may not sound like such a large goal. But some things to consider: (1) This would be about double what I did in 2012. Poor planning and just plain busyness are my faults. This is a modest goal that I genuinely feel I can accomplish IF I make it a point of focus (which I am doing now) & (2) I live in Minnesota (nuff said). I will accomplish this by getting out at least 2 days per month at the local crags. Also I have plans in the works for 2-3 destination excursions.

13 – Thirteen routes sent at 5.12a or higher. I have done 4 – 12a’s in the last two seasons, all in only 2 attempts. This demonstrates 3 things. (1) I don’t get outside nearly enough, (2) I (we) goof off a tad too much when I do get the rare outdoor day, & (3) I can climb harder. This too will take some good planning and discipline to accomplish, but I feel it is highly attainable.

AND – I too would like to give a true attempt at my first 5.13 in 2013. I am really hoping to take a return trip to Jackson Falls this November. Jackson Falls is a cool sandstone crag in So.Ill. The location is very cool. I’d love to jump on Red Corvette (13a). Or even stop by Pettenwell Bluff on the way home and give a go on Whiskey A Go-Go (13a). The fact that this goal is not revolving around success on the route makes this purely a logistical effort. Plus a self-image concern. If I am accomplishing the first 2 goals, I feel I will be READY for a 13a. But if I’ve only been outside 8 times this year and sent nothing above 12b … maybe I would feel like I don’t deserve it. Lets find out!!!


So I’m laying it all out there again. Let’s hear from you…
What climbing goals have you set for 2013?

~ Climb 4 Real ~

Incorporating Family

Eric Hörst and Family Climbing

This is an inspiration for me. Creating opportunities to be active with my family is a challenge, yet OH so rewarding. Quite a legacy Hörst is leaving. I seek to leave the same adventurous imprint on my children. So many success principles they can learn outdoors that video games can never reproduce.

How are you intentional about these types of family activites?

~ Climb 4 Real ~

Next 5 weeks – Accountable Training

I will do these workouts ... or else I have to fess up

I will do these workouts … or else I have to fess up

As promised, these are my next 5 weeks of training. I know the color coordination and much of the info may not hold much meaning for you personally, but I’ve put it out there and have committed to doing each of them. Now, having done this, I know from experience that my resolve will immediately be tested. Life remains unpredictable. And I am still very much excited about spending as much quality time with my family as possible. What this means for me is that I will have to be disciplined enough to get out and train late nights no matter how draining of a day I’ve had OR (against all odds) get up early in the morning.

What you can expect from me: I will post a comment to this post immediately following my workout or at the latest the following morning. When I live up to my word I will share a quick snip as to how it went. IF I slack off and skip it, or deviate from the plan… then I will have to confess my laziness.

~ Climb 4 Real ~

Joshua Tree bouldering

revisionist trad bouldering in the park

Stick Clip; The Blog

Because I'm too scared to climb up and clip it. Christ, Climbing, Community.

Choss Chronicles

It's not choss, it's bomber

Rob Pizem's Blog for all Seasons

Family, Rock Climbing, Training, Public Speaking and Life.

The Rock Climber's Training Manual

A Comprehensive Program for Continuous Climbing Improvement

Climbing Together and Other Fun Adventures

A community for climbers and adventure enthusiasts to learn about training, health, gear, and exciting adventure news

The Spot Route Setting Blog

Opening the Doors for Spot Member Involvement

VE St. Paul Setting

All Things Setting @ Vertical Endeavors St. Paul

Tom Randall Climbing

Don't expect anything normal...

A girl walks into a climbing gym...

and that was how it all started.

Breaking In My Shoes

On an Adventure in Paradise

the Severe climber

"The best climber is the one having the most fun" Alex Lowe

Lazy H Climbing Club

Mark Anderson's Climbing & Training Journal

London Climbing Monkey

My love for climbing

evolvingmovement

The art of moving in a vertical world

%d bloggers like this: